Tuesday, February 10, 2009

Puerto Vallarta to Zihuatanejo

Besides exploring Puerto Vallarta we also did some repair work on our head sail and the fringed out Mexican flag.
For the sail we hoisted the old, heavy Pfaff machine on deck which was a lot easier to get to the repair on the big sail. Since this sail is fairly old the stitches came loose on the edge of the blue trim (UV protection). For the biggest part the machine managed to go over the thick fabric, and we were only left to do a small section by hand.
On the flag the red fabric edge started to fringe since the flag sometimes hits a halyard or the running backstay. I already had the red fabric, and so it was an easy repair. At the same time we made a small Swiss Flag which we now fly on the port side.
On a relative short notice we invited Franz and Ilse, our friends from Auburn CA to spend some time with us on the boat. For their arrival we moved into the Paradise Village Marina in Nuevo Vallarta. The marina is in an estuary, and most of the boat slips are bow or stern to a long dock next to a plush Hotel and Condo complex, including an expensive shopping center.
On the 21st we took the bus to the airport to pick up our friends. The next day we did another trip to PV, showing Ilse and Franz our favorite parts of the old town section with a grand view down to the bay and beaches.
Our friends ready for a sailing adventure agreed to sail with us a bit further south, meaning going off shore, and then return to PV by bus for their return flight.
Friday, we started out by sailing across the bay back to La Cruz, where we have anchored before. It was the perfect brake in sail, calm seas and light wind. To finish off the lovely day we went to shore for dinner. After checking out a few restaurants, we decided on a local authentic place, and were the only guests. We hit it off with the waiter, and at the end were offered a free shot of Tequila out of a wooden barrel. Just as we were ready to go, he and the owner brought out a liter bottle of homebrew Tequila, that’s what we understood, and offered it to us for a good price. We tried it, liked the taste and bought it. On the way back we passed the cruisers hang out place, a pub with a live band playing. The music, rhythm, and atmosphere were catching, and we found a table to sit. It was great to watch the band, especially one member; he was playing with special metal tipped leather gloves on an old fashioned washboard, which also had two bells, a whistle, and a thimble attached to it. The lead singer and his wife played the guitar, and the fourth member was a master on the drum set.

Saturday, after breakfast we got ourselves ready to sail further south, and give Ilse and Franz an insight into boating travels. We motored for about one hour with the main sail up, and then were able to let the Genoa out, and turn off the engine. Just before we rounded Cabo Corrientes we caught dinner. Quickly we rolled in the head sail to slow the boat, so Peter was able to reel in the fish. We were a bit disappointed that it was a Yellow tail tuna and not a Mahi Mahi. After gutting and cutting it, the catch went into the fridge, and we were able to sail again.
After so many trips we had to do under engine power, we really enjoyed this sail to Ipala averaging around 6 kn, and arrived even earlier then we thought. Sadly enough our guests could not enjoy the sailing part as much, since they both got seasick.

After a days rest we sailed to Bahia Chamela, a 48 mile trip. This time there was no wind, and once again we moved under engine with the main up for stabilization.
Since it was flat calm, Ilse and Franz felt fine. We anchored among 15 other boats at the N end of the bay by Perula, a small village.
Landing the dinghy was now a bit more of a challenge since there was a surf brake to master. After a walk along the beautiful beach, and return through town we settled in one of the many palapa cantinas, where we had lunch. We were totally relaxed, played a few rounds of domino, which we borrowed from the cantina owner. Ilse and I went back to the village to buy a few fresh groceries. By the time we returned Franz and Peter were in the domino game with the owner couple. Peter and Ruth played together, and were on the winning streak. By now it was evening, and dinner time, and we inquired if the kitchen was still open. Being so we ordered dinner, and paid with coins for music in one of these old fashioned big music boxes.
At the end it was time to return to the boat, the surf was still high and so it happened that we did not time the perfect dinghy take off, no harm but we all got a pretty wet.

Wednesday we sailed on to Bahia Tenacatita, again under engine power. After 4 hrs we entered the 3 mile wide bay with four anchoring possibilities, depending on the wind direction. We were not surprised to find a large number of anchored boats, since this is a really beautiful well known bay. Next day we walked to the hotel, since there is no village near by, to do the necessary inquiries for our guests return to Puerto Vallarta. Franz and Ilse decided to take a taxi, and organized for an early Saturday pick up. Taxi rides being so reasonable we agreed on the spot to do a taxi ride to Bahia de Navidad, 18 miles south (on the road).

Oscar, the driver dropped us off in the town’s center. From here we walked the narrow streets of Barra de Navidad, a lovely Mexican town. This place had a fair number of tourists, and a lot of little gift shops. In a cantina, overlooking the bay we ate a small lunch. In the sheltered basin near the Grand Bay Hotel is the marina with a great number of slips, or in the back lagoon through a marked channel is the anchorage. At the sport fishing dock hung a 400 lb. Marlin with its proud fisherman standing next to it for pictures. He had to fight the fish for 21/2 hrs. to reel him in. After 3 hours we met up with Oscar the taxi driver, and he drove us back.

Friday morning we got up very early for the self-guided jungle river dinghy trip. With the dinghy we approached the rocky bar into the Rio Iguana very cautious, but then decided to land it on the beach and walk down to check it out further. We then opted to cross the bar, so Peter and I went back to the dinghy, and paddled over the shallow bar. Once inside, Franz and Ilse boarded the dinghy again, and we were off for the adventure. The body of water was fairly wide, and on both sides lined with Mangroves. Having the rising sun behind us, the light was perfect, and we were able to spot quite a few birds. Peter turned off the engine a few times, so we were able to hear the different calls from the birds. Once we were at the end of the ride we beached the dinghy, and walked along this small community Playa Escolleras, with several boats anchored in front of the beach. There were quite a few RV’s in a crowded RV park, and a super RV spot right on the beach in a small cove. After our lunch we headed back to the dinghy, and retraced our route through the jungle. Having the sun again behind us, was perfect timing. We spotted three smaller crocodiles sun bathing on a branch over the water.

Saturday morning, very early it was time to say good bye to our guests, which were great troopers. Since their flight left later in the afternoon, they had plenty of time for the drive back to Puerto Vallarta, to include some side trips.
We then pulled up the anchor, and drove to Playa Esolleras, where we anchored. In the afternoon Genesis and Chrysalis, two familiar boats dropped their anchors. It was fun to see them again.

We left February 1st for Manzanillo Bay (182 miles NW of Zihuatanejo). This time we were able to sail with the spinnaker. It was a great trip. Heading into this big bay the wind got stronger, and we had to take the sail down a bit earlier then planed. We anchored in front of the grand hotel “Las Hadas”, a resort built in a style inspired by a famous Moorish fairytale. The movie “10” with Bo Derek was filmed here, spurring up jet-set and tourism.

With the local bus we drove to Manzanillo the town with a population of about 103,000, and did several trips to the near shopping centers for provisioning.
A rather seldom sight, two sailboats flying foreign flags (German & Poland) joined the anchorage. We got to talk to the young couple from Germany. They are on the way up north, and started 31/2 years ago. (http://www.world-sailing-ultima.blogspot.com/).
They gave us a bunch of German books, and we gave them all our paper charts for the US coast, making a strong statement not to go north again.

February 5th we left at 10:15AM, sailed, and motor sailed to Caleta de Campos 110 miles south of Manzanillo, arriving there the following day around 12:30 PM. The nice bay was very rolly, and we put out a stern anchor to keep the boat facing the swell avoiding the sidewise rolling motion. After this maneuver the boat motion was much better. The small town is atop the bluff, and the shore is lined with many cantinas. It is so amazing to watch the pangueros land and take off in such a heavy shore break. For them it is effortless and so natural. I definitely made up my mind not to go to shore here, being way too afraid to land the dinghy without rolling it over in the surf. We therefore swam circles around the boat in the clear and jelly fish free water.
We had in mind to leave here late Sunday afternoon, just before dark, so we would arrive in Zihuatanejo during daylight. But since there was a nice light wind good for sailing, we changed our plan and left around noon. Once we were outside the bay we hoisted the Spinnaker and had a wonderful sail until 8 PM. Then, once more the engine got turned on, and we pottered through the full moon night. Throughout the day we saw quite a few sea turtles resting at the surface. We also observed that when we see one, there is a second one close by, assuming that they travel in pairs. After a simple meal we both felt wide awake and excited in anticipation for a night arrival. We usually plan our departure so we arrive during daylight as we initially did, but changed, since we wanted to sail. At night the wind often gets very light or dies altogether.
With all the navigation equipment now available plus a full moon, it was no problem to enter a strange port during the night, and this being such a big bay. At 01:30AM, we dropped the anchor in the beginning of the bay. Now tired we went to bed.

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