We ended up hiring a diver, and after a long wait for his service he recovered the items within 20 minutes. While we had to wait Peter rinsed the outboard motor with fresh water and afterwards sprayed it down with WD40.
At 13:40, much later then planed we were finally under way thinking to go as far as Puerto Balandra, but then decided to keep going.
Since this was back-tracking our journey we felt confident to arrive at Ensenada de los Muertos at night. There was no moon, and it was pretty dark. At 21:30 we approached the anchorage, and anchored just passed two mega Yachts.
After a good nights rest, Peter went to work on the outboard motor using his super glue to assemble all the pieces. The outboard came to life again and works just like it always did.New Years eve we went to shore for dinner in the only bar/restaurant. It was decorated for the celebration, and a two men band played country blues tunes.
We were asleep when the New Year was welcomed with fire crackers, and shots.
One of the best sails ever we had New Years Day to Bahia Los Frailes. We set out with the main under power in a short 1-2 ft chop with 3 – 4 kn wind from the aft. At 10:00 we set the spinnaker, the main still up was blanketing the spinnaker so we tried first with a double reef but then took it down. We sailed at 6 kn with the wind around 10 kn, very comfortable.
With the daylight fading out we made the anchorage, and saw a whole school of Rays jumping way out of the water flapping their pectoral fins most likely to escape a predator. The whole scene repeated itself over and over, it was truly amazing to watch.
The following morning 8:45 we set sail with 10kn NE wind, and course to Mazatlan.
The 163.4 nm, trip was a mixture of sailing, motor sailing, and simply motoring. It was mainly flat seas therefore a very pleasant motion, and took us 28 ¼ hrs.
We anchored among a few other cruising boats, some of which we have seen before, in a big bay right after the entrance, next to the commercial dock.
After freshening up we went to shore and joined the singing and guitar playing yatistas sitting under a tarp. They all had their guitars, played familiar country, and rock tunes.
Since arriving at the mainland of Mexico we enjoy the much more natural tropical vegetation, in compare to desert like Baja California. So we really enjoyed Mazatlan, did a lot of walking, and also took advantage from the local bus system driving from one end to the other. As always an experience to itself was the big open market in the center of the town. We met a couple from Bellingham traveling south not by boat but on a tandem bicycle.
Monday, January 5th, we pulled up the anchor and headed out for an overnight trip to San Blas. We started out under power but then were able to sail. At first with the Spinnaker 6 – 7 kn, with wind around 10 – 15 kn, and for the night we took the Spinnaker down and let the Genoa out.
We relied on our eyes, radar and the depth sounder to enter the tricky harbor estuary to San Blas since the electronic chart was incorrect. It not only was showing small islets that were non existent but it was also of scale by 1.5 miles. This is not unusual, therefore electronic or any other chart form should be used with caution. One has to cross over a sandbar, and at times the water depth was very low, so we did a short bounce on soft bottom.
Once inside, it felt like being on a river with a strong out flowing current, we passed a couple cruising boats we met up with before, and then dropped our hook as well.
After a quick lunch we went to shore, parked the dinghy at Pepe’s beach front. For 20 pesos he watches dinghies, so the boaters can explore the town worry free. We immediately loved the feel of this historical seaport. While sitting at the town square licking on a delicious ice cream, we saw Michelle & Tim from the S/V Bamboo walking on the other side of the road. Calling out to them we got to talk, and they told us about the safari panga rides, asking if we like to join them. Through Pepe we were able to organize the ride for the following day.
At 06:30 we picked up Michelle & Tim, drove to Pepe’s place, and met our tour guide. Together we made our way towards town, where he suggested that we hop into a taxi for only 20 pesos ($1.60), which will bring us to the starting point for the safari trip.
A few minutes later we were under way for an adventure. Leaving the main stream we went into an arm unfolding mangroves with tendrils of aerial roots hanging way down reaching the mirror clear water. Our guide pointed out so many bird species perfectly blending into the environment which we would have missed. We stopped at a crocodile farm, got out to stretch our legs, and walked through the well groomed area. There were about 6 cages with each two big crocs laying there like dead with their giant mouth open. The only sign of life was their strong tongue muscle moving once in a while because of swarms of annoying flies. Two cages were full with a whole bunch of small crocs.
Back in the panga we returned a bit faster this time, passing oncoming pangas filled with tourists. We sure were glad to have started early. On the way back we saw some wild crocs along the estuary enjoying the sun, or waiting for a meal?
Around noon we reached our starting point, and with this wonderful experience to remember, walked back to town.
The following day we went to shore in the afternoon. As we walked by the taco restaurant we saw Stacie & John from Bellingham, the bicycle couple, eating their lunch. Together we hiked to the historic sites up on the hill.
There we got a lecture on San Blas by Jose Nicolas Quirarte Aldrete, an historian who knows his subject and quiet physically told it, and all that in Spanish. Luckily at the end he handed out a booklet with an English translation.
Saturday morning early we visited the local flea market, not much different to ours. In the afternoon we invited Stacie & John out to the boat where we learned more about their incredible biking adventure.You may want to check them out on: www.crazyguyonabike.com then SEARCH: To Argentina, you nuts?
Sunday, Jan. 11th, we pulled up the well set anchor, and drove to the commercial fuel dock, to fill the nearly empty tanks. We then left the estuary and now with high tide no problem going out the entrance.
Since there was no wind we didn’t even get the main sail cover off, and under power charging the batteries motored the short trip of 4 hrs. to the next anchorage Chacala Bay.
This being an open road stead, the anchorage is quite rolly. Once the bow anchor was down, Mark from the sail boat “Sol Mate” being in his dinghy, offered us to help drop our stern anchor.
This made the motion acceptable but after coming from the total flat San Blas estuary water, it still felt like being at sea. Chacala bay has a pretty beach, palapa restaurants and some hotels. Life at the beach is quite busy, lots of people swimming, walking and sun bathing.
Monday, together with Michelle & Tim we took a taxi to Las Varas 6 miles inland. Another nice busy little town unfolded strolling along the cobble stone streets with happy, friendly people sitting in front of their stores. We had a small lunch, topped with a delicious ice cream.
For our return we squeezed into an already packed van with fun laughing students, and we were glad to get out along the main road at the famous tropical fruit galore stands, while shopping and waiting for another taxi.
On Sunday the beach was a very busy with locals enjoying the day off. However, the last two days the sun bathing and swimming guests account for just a few. This place is apparently very popular during holidays and summer by campers and Jet Ski riders.
Thursday we went on a hike up to the ridge through lush green jungle vegetation, overlooking the bay on one side, and on the other side we had a view down to a big crater formed many years ago.
As we walked back along the beach, approaching the restaurants we again met up with John and Stacie our bicycle friends.
Friday, Jan. 16th, at 08:00 we left for Banderas Bay. We had the main sail up for stabilization but had no wind and were under engine power once again. We can’t remember when we have experienced such a lively sea. We saw whales, many dolphins, and big groups of birds diving for fish. We also came upon a net which was held up by small plastic bottle floats. Lukily we were forewarned by Mike & Judy on S/V SAVANNAH, fellow cruisers who left an hour prior to us. They called us on the VHF radio after they went over it. At first we wanted to drive around the net, but quickly realized that it was way too far. With the engine in neutral we then drifted over the line between to floats, hoping that the line would clear the hull. Having a full keel helped, and nothing happened, as we saw the thin line appearing again behind the boat.Once we entered Banderas Bay (Puerto Vallarta) with course to the anchorage by La Cruz we finally were able to sail for the last hour. Getting closer to the anchorage we were not surprised to find a big fleet of boats, and counted 34 sailboats and two power boats anchored in front of the new Marina.
